I do NOT advise you
do this, 2 long needles are much better.
Soldering the 3
wires to the EEPROM
Soldering 3 wires to the EEPROM is
NOT your only choice.
You can use clips or sharp probes or
even make your own sharp probes for SDA and SCL then use a clip for
the GND connection.
The GND connection can be made using a larger clip
to any metal part of the System Board such as the metal clips
holding the RAM, or the shell of the USB connector, or the metal
heat sink or fan parts.
following steps requires excellent soldering skills and the right
tools, after reading this section if you feel that if you do not have
the skills and the required tools then have someone else do it for
good magnifying glass,
large clear desk, so that you can separately
layout the individual modules together with the screws for that
soldering iron with a fine tip, that is in good order
it may be wise to use a brand new tip
for cleaning the soldering iron tip
diameter resin cored solder
enamel coated wire or similar small diameter insulated wire,
about 2 metres or 6 feet will be ample.
good quality small Philips screw driver
that does fit the screws in your TP without burring the screw heads.
The soldering process
This is the most
critical operation, soldering the wires to the eeprom requires a lot
of care and some skill, you are soldering 3 very fine diameter wires
to very small narrow FRAGILE eeprom pins.
If you know how to
solder, and you have tackled surface mounted components before, you
can skip this soldering tutorial.
If you are new to
soldering, or if you have never tackled something quite this small,
then do read all this.
It is a good idea to
practice soldering some of your fine wire to something other than the
real eeprom, practice on something else before tackling the eeprom.
That will either give
you confidence or it may convince you that for whatever reason you
can't do it, it may be you or your equipment and you need someone else
to assist you.
Preparing the soldering iron
You should have a
soldering iron with a fine tip.
How fine , you
The end of the tip
must be narrow enough so that it does not bridge across 2 pins of
You do need a decent fine tip
soldering iron to solder the wires
The red enamel coated wire
[supplied with some KeyMakers on request], can be used to make the
soldered connections to the EEPROM.
clean the tip of your soldering iron, of course your soldering
should be switched on and at working temperature.
sufficient solder to the soldering iron tip to form a small blob
Place one end of the red wire inside
that blob for about TWO OR THREE SECONDS, that will melt the red
Move the red wire out of the solder
and inspect the end of the wire, the red insulation should be
melted away revealing a clean silvery coloured tinned copper wire
is a close-up view of the wire
the wire isn't nicely tinned, DO IT AGAIN until it is
you will get a lot of melted enamel on the end of the wire and it will
look dirty, don't persevere with it, cut that small section off the end
and try again.
For each wire end
clean the soldering iron tip by wiping it against a wet sponge designed
for use with a soldering iron.
a FRESH BLOB OF SOLDER, as the blob will quickly fill up with burnt
enamel, only use one blob for one wire end.
You will be trying
to solder 1 fine wire to 1 eeprom pin without disturbing the
adjacent pins on the eeprom.
Some fine tips are
rectangular, that's OK, use the narrow edge.
If the tip is
pitted or corroded, don't use it, purchase a brand new tip.
soldering iron ON and allow it to heat up.
Wet your sponge,
this is a sponge that is sold to be used to wipe soldering iron
tips, if you don't have one an ordinary kitchen sponge that has not
been used [brand new] will do, it is better than not using a sponge
Squeeze all the
water out of the sponge so that it is moist but not dripping with
Apply a fair amount
of fine resin core solder to the tip of the soldering iron, have
something underneath to collect the extra melted solder that will
drip from the tip, let it coat the entire tip with a fine silvery
The resin core
cleans the tip and allows the solder to coat the tip evenly.
Wipe the tip on the
sponge to take away all the excess solder and burnt resin, so your
tip has a nice even coating of solder.
The reason why you
do this is to have a fine layer of solder adhered to the tip to
easily conduct the heat from the tip to the wire and eeprom pin.
A tip that is dirty an without a thin coat of solder, will not work
well, the heat will not be easily
transferred and you will be tempted to press it hard against
the eeprom pin in a futile attempt to make it work, that will damage
your eeprom, it may break the pin etc.
Your iron is ready
If your iron is
left switched on for a while before use, repeat the process to coat
and clean the tip before using it to solder wires to the eeprom.
It is a good idea
to repeat the process of cleaning and coating the tip for each
individual wire to be soldered as the insulation on the wire may
contaminate the tip.
The pins on the
eeprom are very fragile, easily broken, imagine that they are like
aluminium foil in strength
You will be soldering
3 wires to 3 eeprom pins.
When soldering the 3
wires to the eeprom you DO NOT USE FORCE, the heat from the iron
contacting the wire and the eeprom pin melts the solder, the heat does
the work, you must NOT USE FORCE to push pull or move the eeprom pins.
You perform these
steps for each of the three wires.
Trim the part of
the wire that is "tinned" [the end that is now coated with
solder] to a suitable length, the tinned part of the wire should be
roughly the length of the eeprom pin.
So this is what you
should have at this point, a wire with a bit at the end that is
coated with solder, a fine coating, not a huge blob.
A soldering iron
tip that is coated with solder and is clean.
An eeprom pin that
you are going to solder the wire to.
Note you are not
going to apply any MORE SOLDER to solder the wire to the eeprom pin.
If you apply solder
to the eeprom, it will most likely flow down between the pins, and
make a solder bridge between adjacent eeprom pins, you don't need
There is sufficient
solder on the wire and the eeprom to enable you to solder the two
The reason is that
the eeprom pin already has a solder coating from when it was
originally soldered to the system board when your TP was
manufactured. The wire has solder on it. The iron's tip has solder
on it, all three have a fine layer of solder barely noticeable
except that it looks silvery in colour.
Next you place the
tinned end of the wire on top of the eeprom pin, and bring the
soldering iron tip to contact the wire and melt the fine coating of
solder on the wire, that in turn heats up and melts the solder on
the eeprom pin.
No force is
required, just contact between the iron, the wire and the eeprom
When you see the
solder on the eeprom pin melting [it should only take 2 or 3seconds
max], you know it is melting as it changes appearance from dull
silvery to shinny silvery.
Now keep the wire
very still and remove the iron from the wire.
Wait for the wire
and eeprom pin to cool down slightly, 3 or 4 seconds is required.
Now gently test
that the wire is attached to the eeprom pin, pull the wire ever so
gently, if it is attached use clear sticky tape to tape down
the wire near the EEPROM onto some part of the system board close to
the eeprom pin to
prevent the wire being accidentally pulled off while re assembling your
Get your magnifying
glass and carefully examine the wire joined to the eeprom pin, check
that the wire is soldered to the eeprom pin, check that there are no
solder bridges between adjacent eeprom pins, check that eeprom pin
has not been lifted up in the air.
You will repeat the
above for all 3 wires.
If you end up with a
lot of solder between adjacent pins, DON'T PANIC, wipe the soldering
iron tip, heat the excess solder with the iron tip, some solder will
stick to the iron tip, wipe the tip and repeat the process till the
excess solder has been removed.
I make no warranty that any of my
information is correct, or safe, or does or does not breach any warranty
clause, or anything else, it is up to you to decide if you will
follow all or any of the instructions to recover the Supervisor Password
from a TP. It is up to you to decide, I am not responsible for the
results or for any consequential or incidental damages whatsoever.
If you have any questions, email Joe at